The largest blockhouse on site, historically these were used as both barracks for troops and a defensive emplacement should the walls be breached.

Fort Niagara after its capture by the British in the French-Indian War in 1759 remained a loyal British stronghold throughout the American Revolution. When the Jay Treaty was signed in 1796 the British Army was forced to surrender the massive fort located strategically at the mouth of the Niagara River. They began construction of a new Fort on the Upper Canada side of the river named Fort George. Completed in 1802 it soon became the military headquarters for the region and directly under the command of General Isaac Brock of the 49th Regiment of Foot.

Cannons mounted along the large ‘flag bastion’ on site.

The new fort featured both log and earthwork bastions, cannons, blockhouses, a powder magazine, kitchens, a hospital, and a smithy. Its job was to defend British interests on the Niagara River, provide shelter for British troops, the local militia and the Indian Department. There is a story of how on the eve of the American declaration of war against the British Empire and subsequent invasion of Upper Canada, that the officers of Fort Niagara were dining at Fort George with their British counterparts. Upon hearing the news that war had been declared the dinner continued and the American officers were sent back to Fort Niagara, and the next day the two forts opened fire upon each other. The Americans laid siege to Fort George in May of 1813; a massive naval bombardment followed with a ground attack forced the British to retreat back to their fortifications at Burlington Heights. The Americans used the fort as their base of operations as they attempted to push further into Upper Canada. But after the engagements at Stoney Creek and Beaver Dams they retreated back across the river later in 1813 allowing British Forces to re-establish their garrison at Fort George.

The original powder magazine, the only original structure on site.

Fort George remained in British hands throughout the rest of the conflict. Although the fort remained garrisoned through the rest of the war, the completion of Fort Mississauga located closer to the mouth of the river lessened the importance of Fort George. The fort was left in ruins by 1820, the grounds repurposed for agriculture and even a golf course, as most military operations had been moved to Fort Mississauga or Butler’s Barracks. At the start of conflict during the First World War saw the grounds once again home to the much larger Camp Niagara training base. The 1930s saw a great interest in restoration of many of the historic forts in the Niagara region, Fort George was reconstructed at that time using the original plans from the Royal Engineers. Most of the buildings that occupy Fort George today are reconstructed with modern materials based on the original plans and layout, the powder magazine is the only original building on site and the oldest building in Niagara-On-The-Lake. The fort is operated under Parks Canada as a National Historic Site, reenactors on site dress as the 49th Regiment of Foot. The crown forces operate a drill school every April at the fort as well.

The officer’s quarters and mess.

Photos:
Pentax 645 – SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 – Kodak Tri-X Pan (TXP)

Sources:
Guidebook to the Historic Sites of the War of 1812 Second Edition, Revised and Updated
Gilbert Collins
www.pc.gc.ca/eng/lhn-nhs/on/fortgeorge/natcul/natcul2.aspx

Laura Secord’s home in Queenston where all the action started.

The Americans still smarting from their defeat at Stoney Creek set out on a new offensive on June 22nd, a column of 600 troops under the command of Lt. Colonel Charles Boerstler set out from Fort George and made it to Queenston by 11pm on the 22nd and billeted in the town. Several officers stayed at the home of Laura Secord. During the night she overheard their plans to attack DeCew house and slipped out heading north walking the 27 kilometers to the house located in modern day Thorold. The Americans set out again in the morning of the 23rd, as they neared the escarpment at St. Davids they were spoted by Native scouts who also headed towards FitzGibbon at DeCew house. Their story was corroborated by the earlier information the Lieutenant had received from Laura Secord. FitzGibbon realizing he was seriously outnumbered began to lay his own plans for the American forces that were still under the impression the element of surprise was on their side.

The Ruins of DeCew house in Thorold, ON

By the 24th the Americans had made it over the escarpment and began to march along the Mountain Road towards the settlement at Beaver Dams. FitzGibbon had deployed his native warriors in the woods along the mountain road in ambush, and the small detachment of the 49th at the rear of the American column to prevent them from retreating. Boerstler became aware of the native warriors in the woods but refused to take any actions against them. As the American column approached the north east corner of Thorold Township the Mohawk warriors attacked the column, ambushing them in the woods. The American column broke, and scattered while continuing to be harassed by the Mohawks. The Americans wanted to drive the natives out into the open so that they could bring their artillery to bear, but with the warriors attacking from all sides it was difficult for the American commanders to organize their men into an effective counter attack. The battle raged on for a couple hours, FitzGibbon hearing the musket fire rode out to see what was happening, giving order for his own men to muster for battle. By the time he had arrived the Americans were preparing to pull back. FitzGibbon rode out to meet the Americans under a flag of truce only to encounter the Americans riding his way under the same flag. But FitzGibbon had a plan. He knew that his force was far outnumbered, even the native allies were pulling back, but even still he told the American officer that more natives were coming and he could not count on controlling them, in addition to the natives more British regulars were on their way and that their best move would be to surrender now. The Americans called FitzGibbon’s bluff and refused to surrender to a force that they could not see, but the bold Lieutenant offered to allow them to inspect the forces. The ruse was perpetuated as a group of Dragoons showed on the scene. FitzGibbon convinced the leader of the Dragoons, Captain John Hall to portray FitzGibbon’s superior officer, Major DeHaren, Hall stepped into the role with pride, informing the Americans that they could not inspect the British forces. The ruse was working, Boerstler was despite, he had many tired soldiers and more wounded. But the whole thing was nearly undone on the arrival of the actual Major DeHaren who began his own negotiations for the American Surrender. FitzGibbon pulled the major aside and informed him of the ruse that would allow for a British victory. DeHaren went along with the ruse and the surrender was signed.

The former battlefield memorial park in Beaver Dams, at the time I was unaware a new park had been constructed in downtown Thorold and the plaque moved there.

FitzGibbon was promoted to Captain and assigned to the Glengary Light Infantry for his actions at Beaver Dams. Laura Secord however was not recognized for her actions under later in the 19th century when FitzGibbon issued a written statement confirming her involvement in bringing the information to the Lieutenant. Today DeCew house is nothing more than a ruin having burned down in 1950; Ontario Power Company stabilized the ruin and installed a plaque explaining the value of the structure. The actual battlefield is paved over and a historic plaque that used to sit there was moved to a memorial park first in Beaver Dams but was moved to a new park in downtown Thorold.

Photos:
Pentax 645 – SMC Pentax A 645 75mm 1:2.8 and SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 – Kodak Plus-X Pan (PXP) and Ilford HP5+

Sources:
Guidebook to the Historic Sites of the War of 1812 Second Edition, Revised and Updated
Gilbert Collins
Web: www.battleofbeaverdams.com

I first stepped foot inside her halls in 2006…and loved it. But as the years progressed the signs that she would be torn down became more clear, the land was precious, a section of hte structure collapsed in 2008 finally prompting the city to take action. Lister Block would either be doomed to become yet another parking lot, or be restored. Thankfully the later happened. Through 2009 to 2011 the block was restored to it’s former glory. And by 2012 it was open again with local government offices and services now occupying the building.

Between the Darkness and the Light – Lister Block 2006 to 2012

Lister Abandoned or Lister Restored

Nikon FM2 – AI-S Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4 – Kodak Portra 160
Rolleiflex 2.8F – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Ilford Delta 100

Blockhouses at Fort George wheren FitzGibbon and the rest of the 49th of foot garrisoned from the early 1800s to 1813 when the American’s captured the fort.

FitzGibbon was born in November of 1780 in Glin, Ireland. His family was not wealthy, and at fifteen James joined the local Yeomanry, after three years of service he went onto serve in the Tarbert Infantry Fencibles, a home service regiment in Ireland. During his time in the Fencibles he was recruited into the British Army, the 49th Regiment of Foot. During his European Service with the 49th he fought in the battles of Egmond aan Zee and Copenhagen. It was in 1802, FitzGibbon, now a Sergeant along with the 49th and their commander Isaac Brock were sent to Upper Canada. Brock took the young man under his wing, teaching him how to be a gentleman, and in 1806 secured an ensign’s commission for FitzGibbon in the 49th. It was rare in the 19th century to have an officer raised from the ranks, and often was detrimental to the man in questions, but FitzGibbon seemed to slide into the role with ease, and by 1809 was promoted to Lieutenant.

The battlefield monument at Stoney Creek built 100 years after the battle in 1813.

Even early in the War of 1812, the Lieutenant managed to catch the eye of both the men and officers. Under the noses of the Americans managed to escort supply boats along the St. Lawrence River, and then again managed to keep the supply lines clear through the winter of 1813, bringing much needed supplies from Montreal to Kingston. Just prior to the Battle of Stoney Creek in June of 1813, FitzGibbon managed to infiltrate the American Camp, disguising himself as a farmer he peddled butter to the American soldiers to listen in on camp gossip. Using his intelligence, the British Forces, with FitzGibbon participating as a company commander, managed to drive off a greater number of American soldiers. After Stoney Creek, FitzGibbon raised a volunteer force of fifty men from the 49th to form an elite force of guerrilla soldiers to harass American forces in the Niagara Peninsula. FitzGibbon’s Bloody Boys as they were called often would use grey coats to cover up their usual red-coats to provide better cover. But it was on June 22nd, 1813, that FitzGibbon saw the crowning victory of his career. After a journey of 20 miles through occupied territory, Laura Secord, a resident of Queenston, brought news of on an American attack, designed to take out the thorn in their side, Lt. FitzGibbon. Secord brought news that five hundred American troops were heading towards DeCew house, his headquarters. FitzGibbon, his men, and several native allies took to the field. With the native Allies harassing the American column, FitzGibbon showed up, and under a flag of truce, informed the Americans that they were outnumbered, and surrounded. The Americans surrendered, and FitzGibbon was made a hero, promoted to Captain and transferred to the Glengarry Light Infantry. In the final years of the war FitzGibbon participated in the carnage of the Battle of Lundy’s Lane.

The Ruins of DeCew house where FitzGibbon setup his HQ during the lead up to the Battle of Beaver Dams and where he met Laura Secord.

After the Treaty was signed ending the war, James FitzGibbon remained in Upper Canada serving in the Incorporated Militia, and in 1826 was promoted to full Colonel. He also worked for the Adjutant-General of the Militia, becoming the assistance to the Adjutant-General, and in 1827 was appointed clerk to the Upper House of the Assembly. He was known for his ability to break up rants by house members, a skill that was put to use to break up a riot in 1832 outside William Lyon Mackenzie’s printing house. FitzGibbon, still a Colonel in the Militia played a role in the 1837 rebellions, trying to convince Lt. Governor Head to take action against the rebels, Head eventually conceded that the militia should be called out, and appointed FitzGibbon acting Adjunct-General of the Militia. FitzGibbon, in an act of defiance against Head, posted units on Yonge Street, which allowed them to easily intercept the Rebels that were marching from the north and managed to disperse them. After the rebellion had been quashed, FitzGibbon resigned in protest because of his treatment by Head. After the death of his wife in 1847, he returned to England, becoming a Military Knight at Windsor Castle until his death in 1863, and is buried there.

The memorial wall at the Lundey’s Lane Battlefield.

Sources:
www.herontrips.com/Fitz.html
Guidebook to the Historic Sites of the War of 1812 Second Edition, Revised and Updated
Gilbert Collins

Of course I didn’t get to start taking photos until the sun started peeking out from over the horizon, and by that point I had already been on the road for just over three hours. I saw the sunrise along I-79 just south of Erie, PA the New York leg of the trip behind me.

By golden hour, I was in the moutains, fog obsuring my view a few times as the morning mists lifted.

It was going to be a great day…a long day, but a great one. I cranked up the music, rolled down the windows, donned my sunglasses and set the cruise control to 70. My first major stop was in Morgantown West Virginia, just south of the state line. After killing some time wandering around a Dick’s Sporting Goods (I was looking at inflatable boats for a later adventure) and a Best Buy because it was there and I needed more walking time. I headed to a post office to mail off a package to Dan Domme (returning his EOS A2) and Michael Raso (A Polaroid Spectra for the FPP). While hunting down the post office, I happened across the ghost town of Scotts Run, complete this an abandoned mine. I would have taken a closer look but there was a hobo cooking his breakfast on an open fire just outside.

I moved deeper into the moutains as the interstates moved faster and had a much more winding path, this was a fun way to drive, unlike my trips through Ohio which are straight, and flat.

Cloud cover grew as I hit US-19, I was hoping that it wasn’t going to start raining, I had been doing so well weatherwise.

Thick fog rolled in as did rain clouds as I hit the first of two moutain tunnels.

Rain hit through Virginia, making photography difficult with the wiper blades obsuring the photos. So I set the camera aside until I hit Bristol, this neat little town and birthplace of courtry music sitting astride the VA/TN border. Taking advantage of the break in the rain I exhausted the roll in the downtown.

Of course I was down to my last few shots and the skies once again opened up complete with thunder and lighting, and as crazy as I am, I was not going to be outside in the tempast and beat a hasty retreat to my car and hit the road for the last leg of the trip to Johnson City.

Nikon F3 – AI-S Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4 – Kodak Portra 400

Despite Ektachrome being cancelled in 120 and 35mm formats, I happened to find a decent sized stash in the back of my stores, mostly E100VS.

Over the Easter weekend I had a chance to go south…to Tennessee, and one of my stops was the towns of Bristol. Why towns? Simple there are two Bristols, one in Virginia and one in Tennessee, and they share a common downtown along State Street, as the name implies is the State line. When I stopped in on the town on my way down I was quickly rained out, but Monday as I started the long drive back home, the weather was perfect so I took an hour and just wandered along State Street.

Of other interesting fact…Bristol is the birthplace of Country Music.

The Town’s train station.

State Street, very idilic with the Stars and Stripes moving softly in the slight breeze.

I just love these old school signs.

Or even older painted on for businesses no longer there.

Sadly it was still too early for lunch

More old school signs…sadly this business is gone.

I wonder what’s behind these shutters…

Pentax 645 – SMC Pentax A 645 35mm 1:3.5 – Kodak Ektachrome E100VS

You don’t just happen to come across the site of Butler’s Farm. It’s not exactly in the main tourist district of Niagara-On-The-Lake; you have to want to find it. It took me a second attempt to actually find the place. Located at the end of a shady residential street, aptly named Butler Street is a chain link fence and gate, behind the gate stands several grave markers embedded in concrete, with new granite markers listing the names of those whom are buried there.

Located at the end of Butler St. in Niagara-On-The-Lake is a small cemetary where the Butler family lay.

But in the early 19th century it was a farm, and in July of 1813 a small, little known battle happened on the site. During his forced retreat during the battle and capture of Fort George by American forces the British army left behind medical supplies, buried near the home of Mr. Cassel Chorus. On July 8th Major General Francis, Baron De Rottenburg ordered that these supplies be retrieved. A detachment consisting of members from the 8th (The King’s) Regiment of Foot, a group of native allies, and the Provincial Dragoons were sent in. Despite the proximity to the Fort and thus American Pickets the detachment managed to get to the farm without detection. But while the wagons were being loaded with supplies the American pickets engaged the British Native Allies. The Natives under the command of Captain John Norton of the Indian Department managed to hold the Americans back until late afternoon. They were forced to withdraw when several hundred members of the 13th US Infantry arrived to reinforce their pickets.

Seeing this as an opportunity Lieutenant Eldridge of the 13th took forty men and pursued Norton’s warriors. Only to find his force ambushed by natives hiding in the ravine, the initial volley killed eighteen soldiers including the brash Lieutenant. Ten Americans were taken prisoner while the remainder retreated and escaped back to Fort George. Norton’s forces only suffered three wounded warriors.

Today a plaque marks the spot describing this small skirmish, and also about the family that lay buried on these grounds. The Butler family, specifically Lieutenant Colonel John Butler is credited with the founding of present day Niagara-On-The-Lake. A new set of barracks were constructed after the War of 1812 well away from American guns and were named after the founder of the city. Butler’s Barracks continued to see operations up until the end of the Second World War.

Once a massive military base, Butler’s barracks have been reduced to a handful of buildings.

Written with files from:
Guidebook to the Historic Sites of the War of 1812 Second Edition by Gilbert Collins – 2006 The Dundurn Group Publishers
Web: www.ontarioplaques.com/Plaques_MNO/Plaque_Niagara79.html
Web: discover1812.com/page/1813
Web: www.ontarioplaques.com/Plaques_MNO/Plaque_Niagara01.html

Have I mentioned how much I love Portra 400?

Rolleiflex 2.8F – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Kodak Portra 400

Niagara Parks obtained the Chippawa battlefield in 1995, while most is still in rough shape, the section closest to the road is well maintained.

On the evening of July 4th, General Winfield Scott marched north with 1300 American troops, setting up camp near the Chippawa River to await reinforcements and General Jacob Brown. By midnight 2000 more American troops had arrived. American forces consisted of elements from 25th, 11th, 9th, and 22nd US Infantry. Learning of this the British forces in the area, under the command of Major General Phineas Riall, sent a small force of mostly snipers in to harass the American pickets and gain intelligence to the number and type of force the American’s had in the area. The force returned to General Riall’s camp, informing him that the American force is mostly militia, having seen them in grey coats instead of the blue of the US regulars. Riall is confident with his 2000 troops in launching an attack on the American forces, knowing that even American regulars could not stand up to a group of well commanded British red coats, not to mention militia.

The maintained section of the battlefield.

Riall marched on the American camp, taking with him 1st battalion 1st Royal Scotts Regiment of Foot, the 100th Regiment of Foot with the 1st battalion 8th The King’s Regiment of foot in reserve. Riall’s force moved through the wooded area to avoid detection by American pickets, encountering a force of 56 American troops in the woods, and was able to quickly push them back to their own camp. However this engagement loses the British element of surprise. Scott of course was not expecting an attack, as it was mid-afternoon at this point, but when the picket force returns, he quickly rallies his troops to meet the British attack. Riall was still expecting the American’s to cut and run under the fire from John Norton’s snipers, but they didn’t. They continue to march, despite this, filling in the gaps as their comrades fell. Riall did not count that the grey uniformed men were in fact American regulars, which under the command of Brown and Scott had been formed into an effective fighting force; one that could in fact stand toe-to-toe with British Red Coats.

Riall himself stated “Those are regulars, by God!” Scott’s men were fighting using the traditional European rules, firing volley after volley into the British lines. Separated by only 100 meters, and with the American artillery firing canister shot into the British lines cost the lives of not only regular troops but officers. With the British artillery silenced by their American counterparts, Scott orders a unique U-shaped formation, creating a devastating cross-fire. After twenty-five minutes of this, Riall knowing the battle was lost pulls his troops back across the river, destroying the bridge in his retreat. American forces pursue the British almost all the way back to the village of Chippawa.

The memorial Cairn, built with stone from Fort Niagara, and Cannon Shot from Fort George.

It was the victory that the American’s were hoping for, they had stood up to British Regulars using their own rules of engagement and won. Riall’s defeat saw the British forces pushed all the way back to Fort George and saw the American’s gain a major foothold on the peninsula once again. Of course this was short lived, as a few weeks later at the Battle of Lundy’s Lane, the American’s were pushed out of Upper Canada for good.

It wasn’t an ideal day to be out photographing sites. Having no wind to wave the flags, and the fog made driving interesting.

The Chippawa battlefield is located along the Niagara Parkway between Niagara Falls and Fort Erie. The site is marked by a stone cairn, built of stone from Fort Niagara and cannon balls from Fort George. Plaques mounted on the sides list the regiments that participated in the battle. There are no guides on site instead a series of plaques allow visitors to read about the battle. Chippawa’s legacy continues even today in the United States Military. The 6th US Infantry’s motto is “Regulars, By God” and there’s a myth about West Point’s grey parade uniforms that they were adopted to commemorate Scott’s troops at Chippawa. The reality was that grey wore well and were much cheaper than blue uniforms.

Written with files from:
Guidebook to the Historic Sites of the War of 1812 Second Edition by Gilbert Collins – 2006 The Dundurn Group Publishers
Web: www.galafilm.com/1812/e/events/chippawa.html
Web: www.historicplaces.ca/en/rep-reg/place-lieu.aspx?id=12972
Web: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Chippawa

Photos:
Pentax 645 – SMC Pentax A 645 75mm 1:2.8 – Ilford HP5+