When I first learned about the RPX line of film I was pretty excited, these days we often get news of discontinuation of films more than the addition of a new film stock. I was also excited when I learned that these would be the modern reincarnation of the legendary Agfa APX films and what a return to the photographic stage. Now these films are produced by Agfa but marketed under the Rollei Name. So with my on going 52-Roll project just past the halfway mark I figured now would be a time to give them a bit of a review! So to kick it off I’m going to review the slowest of the three flavours, RPX 25 and so far my favourite of the lot.

7.7 cm Feldkanone 96 neuer Art
Crown Graphic – Kodak Ektar f:7.7 203mm – Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25
Pyrocat-HD (1+1+100) 12:00 @ 20C

52:500c - Week 50 - Burlington Races
Hasselblad 500c – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25
Ilford Perceptol (1+1) 10:00 @ 20C

Product Highlights

  • Type: Panchromatic B&W Negative Film
  • Base: Polyester (PE)
  • Film Speed: ASA-25, with a Latitude between ASA-12 and ASA-50
  • Formats Available: 35mm/120/4×5

The Good
I’m not going to lie; I love slower films these days, and the RPX25 doesn’t fail. The film delivers on its promise of being a fine grained film and sharp. I mean razor sharp. I’ve had excellent results developing this film in Rodinal and HC-110. It really likes Rodinal at 1+50 dilution and delivers super sharp negatives and fine grain which is something coming from a sharp developer. In HC-110 the high contrast nature of the film really shines but still provides a sharp image with a bit of an uptick in the visible (but beautiful) grain and you still have some great mid-tones. A huge plus for the RPX 25 is that it’s available in both roll film and sheet film, that’s right an ASA-25 sheet film. Something that hasn’t been seen natively in a long time.

52:500c - Week 10 - Capital National
Hasselblad 500c – Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm 1:4 (Yellow) – Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25
Blazinal (1+50) 11:00 @ 20C

52:500c - Week 17 - No Place I'd Rather Be
Hasselblad 500c – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25
Kodak HC-110 Dil. B 5:00 @ 20C

The Bad
There are a couple of points against this film, which isn’t really all that bad, they’re a minor annoyance. The first is developing times, often if you’re getting into highly-dilute developers, even 1:1 you’re looking at 10+ minutes but the results speak for themselves. And these are just the results using medium format, I haven’t had a chance to shoot this film in 4×5 but I’m sure the results will be even better. Another thing that might be an issue with some folks is that if you’re developing for under ten minutes you will want to use a chemical stop bath. And continuing on the theme of developers there are a limited number of times available for this film stock. But it is still the new kid on the block, so it is just a matter of time.

52:500c - Week 21 - Welcome to the Roc
Hasselblad 500c – Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm 1:4 – Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25
Blazinal (1+25) 6:00 @ 20C

52:500c - Week 40 - Grand Old House
Hasselblad 500c – Carl Zeiss Planar 80mm 1:2.8 – Rollei RPX 25 @ ASA-25
Kodak Xtol (1+1) 8:00 @ 20C

The Lowdown
If you’re a fan of slow films, this is not one to overlook, or if you’re in the old school and loved APX 25 then this film is certainly a real winner for you. A future classic for sure. Ideal for landscape and architecture work as you do want to use a tripod to get the full experience with it. Although even on a sunny day you can hand-hold it. And being available in the three top sizes for photography it certainly is an excellent product that I plan on using in the future. And plan on expanding that list of developing times.


  1. Hi, First of thankyou very much for this useful information. I am also a fan of slow films and always want to try somethig new. Would you recommend this or the Rollei Retro 80s for landscapes, archetecture and portraits instead of an Ilford Pand F+ with a Fuji GW690 camera.

    1. Author

      Pan F+ is a beautiful film and is versatile in any situation. RPX 25 I would personally use for Portraits and Landscapes, and Retro 80s for Architecture.

    2. Can I rate this film at asa 15 and develop normal and get good pics?

      1. Author

        I’m pretty sure you can, I’ve not experimented with pulling RPX 25, but it has decent latitude.

  2. I have a big problem with the film, in that it is impossible, in Phoenix anyway, to get a descent scan of the negatives to have them printed. I know I should not have sold my dark room, but I did. There is only one photo company here that prints from negatives, and the contrast with this film is too much for their automated equipment to deal with.
    Sooo…As much as I like the fine grain negatives…just can’t get a good print. Too bad the knowledgeable printers, who used to do such a great job, are gone. At least here.

    1. Author

      I have yet to take this film into the darkroom as my darkroom is a mess at the moment. So I haven’t had a chance to print it properly. However I’ve been getting a decent scans out of it by using my own Epson V700.

    2. give richardphotolab.com a try. THEY ARE AMAZING!

  3. Love your work with this film. I just loaded a roll in my Hasselblad and will give it a try later today. Shooting long exposure waterfalls. I only have D76 so hopefully that works ok. I am hoping i can shoot long exposures at the beach and rivers etc and get some great shots. Right now shooting Across 100 and if this film works I can lose the heavy ND filters for the beach work. Just testing today so all in fun.

    1. Author

      Awesome! It’ll work just fine!

  4. These look fabulous! Will have to give it a try.

  5. I have a problem with this film. Any developer I use (even simple DIY 2 bath developing) gives me small white dots on brighter parts of negative.
    I had this effect on EVERY RPX 25 film. ORTHO 25 and rest of RPX are free from this….

    1. Author

      Interesting. I have never experienced this issue with any roll or sheet of RPX 25 I’ve shot. I would go to Macodirect or Rollei GmbH about this!

    2. After washing your film, wash for a minute with distilled water, then another minute with a wetting agent like photo flow and this should solve your problems if it is dissolved solid deposits from hard water.

  6. White dots on negatives are often caused by minerals/metals in the developer, try mixing your developer with distilled water(fixer etc can be normal water) and see if that helps.

    I use PMK and often had that issue till I switched water.

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